Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Abstinence makes the heart grow fonder

Holy Thursday, Bóbós Burgers, Camden Street Dublin 2

While their countrymen were out buying alcohol like it might never be available for purchase again, Mr 9 Bean Row, his brother and I decided to head to Bóbós to get our fill of meat in advance of the fast day the next day.

Bóbós describes itself as a ‘neighbourhood diner’, which aims to provide an ‘Irish take on high end fast food’. The meat is sourced from Wexford, and is served in thick succulent patties topped with relishes, cheeses and various mixed garnishes. All burgers have twee monikers: the ‘Colm’ (guacamole, smoked bacon, and caramelised onion), the ‘Finn McCool’ (fish fingers, tartare sauce, and traditional salad) and the ‘Cashel’ (blue cheese, smoked bacon, red onion relish and rocket). The Saxa salt, the chips served in little pails and the tin plates on which the burgers tower all add to the nostalgia of the place. It is nice to see an Irish venue not take itself too seriously.

The only criticism I would have is the lack of decent beer list. Bóbós make a point of emphasising the providence of the produce they serve, so it is a shame that the only beer on offer is a European macro brew, particularly where Irish craft beers are increasing both in availability and quality. Hopefully the coming months will see Bóbós have as much regard for the quality of the beer they offer, as the produce they serve.

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